Getting a 4-conductor jack, and wiring up just the Tip, First Ring, and Sleeve - while leaving the second ring totally unconnected - may do the trick in this case. Except the Mic hot (which may have a mic-powering voltage on it) is (safely) shorted to ground on your 3-conductor sleeve. Your phone may have an integrated mic input, and your headphone out may actually be a 4-conductor jack, that's "compatible" with 3-conductor plugs. Since there's already a ground somewhere else, your audio will still work, and has a good chance of being quiet. if you don't mind breaking into a cable (or making one) connect + and - per usual at one end, and + only at the other. Go "local RF" for your audio link, although I've never been happy with that sound.
Ground loop isolator car audio Bluetooth#
BESIGN Bluetooth Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable. However, if you listen to headphones on your phone, and you hear hum, then there's a power supply issue you'll need to address. Usb3.0 Audio Ground Loop Eliminator/Isolator, Noise Filter, Wisddefender Eliminate USB Power Noise by Breaking The Ground Loops, Eliminate The Buzzing Noise, Ground Loop Audio Noise Isolator. There's no metal-to-metal contact in the deck, so you'll be ground isolated and good to go. Or, if you have a cassette deck, get a cassette audio injector to feed audio that way. Or, buy a commercial alternative, and connectorize it to suit. Keep your color codes consistent so that you don't have a polarity reversal and your head explodes. Wire the headphone side to the primary and the car stereo side to the secondary, x2 for stereo.
Go to the Shack and get a pair of those little 600 ohm transformers. Whether that's an issue depends on your phone/battery. Doing that would actually create a ground loop, if the phone is being powered.Ī few choices are: Run on phone battery only when you're listening.
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